Toroweap

The difficult-to-reach Tuweap Area is not for the faint of heart but is perfect for those seeking ultimate solitude and who know how to fend for themselves in wild.

A finger of rock juts out over the Grand Canyon at Toroweap Overlook

Although it is part of the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, it’s located far west of the North Rim Village on the over 7,000 square miles of rugged and remote Arizona Strip.

The term Toroweap is a Native American Paiute word meaning "dry valley." The area is also referred to as Tuweap, a Paiute reference for "the earth," though the term may be derived from a longer Paiute word meaning "long valley."

Dry valley is a good descriptor as this is dry, high desert country; freezing cold in winter and blazing hot in the summer.

Cold and drought-adapted plants such as sagebrush, Utah juniper, Utah agave, yucca, grizzly bear prickly pear, hedgehog cactus and grasses dot the otherwise rocky landscape.

Because there are few permanent sources of water on the Arizona Strip, it is a sparsely populated area.

The desolate but beautiful Arizona Strip

The Supai Formation, identifiable as patches of red rock, has eroded slickrock pools that temporarily fill with water and provide thirsty relief to the tough animals that live here, including mule deer, black-tailed jackrabbits, ringtails, coyotes and ravens.

To reach Toroweap requires a high clearance, four-wheel drive vehicle to travel down the 61 miles of washboard, barely-maintained dirt road known as BLM Road 109, which starts from State Highway 389.

Standing at the edge of Toroweap Overlook

And that is after a 39-mile drive from the North Rim Lodge, making travel to the Tuweap area a total trip of 100 miles one way.

Once at Toroweap, it will take hours to get to the nearest motel, so camping out is the only option.

Because it is so hard to reach, only about 0.2% of all Grand Canyon visitors make it to this lonely spot.

So why does anyone travel here? Because the reward for the effort is profound quiet and jaw-dropping views unlike any other in the park.

You’ll find the most dramatic views at the Toroweap Overlook, where you can walk – carefully! – right up to the edge of the Grand Canyon.

This is the most isolated and steepest overlook in the park. The sheer, 3,000-foot drop to the Colorado River makes a breathtaking, if somewhat vertiginous, viewpoint.

The canyon narrows to less than one mile across here. From the precipitous but thrilling Toroweap Overlook, you can see the turbulent, green Colorado River winding to your left. You may even see river rafters approaching from Phantom Ranch.

The Colorado River winding towards Lava Falls

Look to the right and you'll see Lava Falls, the river’s most treacherous rapids. The black rocks of the falls are the result of debris washed down into the canyon from an ancient lava flow.

When the often-present wind quiets, you can hear the churning of the water and the screams of rafters as they fight to stay afloat.

The Colorado River isn't the only highlight. The overlook area is unique as it's a geologist's paradise of volcanic cliffs, lava flows, weirdly-eroded boulders, and cinder cones.

Look to the east and you'll see the dramatic red rock of the Hermit Shale and Supai Sandstone, which contrasts with the craggy, black basalt rock of past volcanic eruptions and the sandstones and limestones of the Toroweap formation.

Although you can just walk along the canyon's rim, there are four hiking "trails" at Toroweap. They are sparsely marked with cairns, but none of them are maintained and all require good route-finding skills. A GPS is a must for any of these Grand Canyon hikes.

Toroweap Camp is primitive but scenic

The Esplanade Loop Trail begins at Tuweep Campground Site 10. It's an easy 2.9 mile loop but does require navigational skills even though there are cairns along the way.

Esplanade refers to the landform that the Tuweep area sits on at about 4,600 feet in elevation.

The Esplanade forms a flat, broad shelf located about halfway between the hot canyon bottom and the high, cool coniferous forests of the North Rim. Nearer the esplanade, you’ll see cacti, succulents and wildflowers, which contrasts with the sagebrush, grasses and Mormon tea found at lower elevations.

The trail follows a two track road (no longer open to vehicles or bicycles) to the old Tuckup Road. At Tuckup Road, turn west and continue until you reach the Tuckup trailhead.

From here, complete the loop by following the main road south until you reach the Tuweep Campground.

A hedgehog cactus and bunch grasses at common in the Tuweap area

The Saddle Horse Canyon Trail is 1.6-miles round trip. It’s an easy walk to an eroded rock overlook of Saddle Horse Canyon. The trail starts a few yards south of the campground entrance and does require some route-finding.

More like a rock fall than a trail, the spectacular Lava Falls Route is strenuous and potentially dangerous. To reach it, start by driving north out of the campground a few miles until you reach a fork.

Here, there'll be a sign directing you to the trailhead. Go left; the trail will be about two bumpy miles ahead.

The Lava Falls Route starts on a ledge, and then drops steeply in a 2,500-foot decent to the Colorado River in just two miles. Some hikers have described it as a controlled fall.

There is no maintained trail and the route is extremely rocky.

Keep an eye out for the occasional rock cairns along the way to keep you on track, however, getting off course is easy, so carry and use a GPS. A sturdy, thick pair of gloves is also useful for the climb back up to protect your hands from the rocky course.

If you are attempting this hike, you must bring food and plenty of water as there is none along the way. Also, wear a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen because there is no shade.

How long is it round trip? That depends on your fitness level, but you should allow for at least four hours down and a minimum of four hours back up.

Start at dawn and be sure to return to the top before nightfall. This route would be impossible to hike in the dark, even with a headlamp.

There are many unique rock formations in the Tuweap Area

Important Safety Note: The National Park Service advises against hiking down into the canyon during the hot summer months. Temperatures down in the canyon are over 100°F and much hotter than temperatures at the rim. There is no water along this route. Also, you should never hike alone.

The Tuckup Trail begins at the group campsite. It is a 70-mile trek that heads up the Colorado River along the edge of the canyon.

This trail could be for a multi-day backpacking trip (permit required), but good route finding skills are essential as the trail fades the farther you go.

For a 6-mile round trip day hike, walk three miles until you see ancient Toroweap petroglyphs on the boulders. These petroglyphs are thought to be up to 3,000 years old.

Hike the trail in spring, and if there has been rain, you’ll see wildflowers including lilies, poppies, phlox, and cacti in bloom.

A male tarantula, in search of a mate, crawls past a Mormon tea bush

Other highlights at Toroweap include:

• Vulcan’s Throne: now a simple mountain but about 1 million years ago, this volcano produced more volcanic activity than any other area in the West.
• Evidence of Early Inhabitants: though dry, the Arizona Strip area has been inhabited for centuries. You may see arrowheads and rock chippings from the Pre-Columbian Archaic and Paiute cultures, and the signs, brick walls and crumbling wood buildings of 19th century Mormon immigrants.
• Cryptobiotic Soil: a rare and sensitive lifeform that is a complex community of lichens, blue-green algae and bacteria that have taken decades to form. This "living soil" forms a pastry-like crust. Keep an eye out for it in the Tuweep area and avoid walking on it.

The Tuweap Area is wilderness, so there are no fences, no barriers, and just a few formal trails. It’s very easy to get lost, even for experienced hikers.

A few years ago, while camping at Toroweap, Jeff's brother and sister-in-law came across a lost, and rather desperate, geologist. They gave him food, water and a ride back to his truck.

This hiker was very lucky although ill-prepared for his adventure. Do not follow in his footsteps. Be sure to read the information below and the attached National Park Service brochure before you go.

A possible mountain lion track at Toroweap

• We strongly recommend checking in with a Grand Canyon National Park North Rim ranger to inquire about current conditions and access to Toroweap before you go. There is a ranger station at Toroweap but the ranger may not be available.
• Toroweap is a 5-hour drive from the North Rim developed area. The dirt road to Toroweap Overlook from Highway 389 is a minimum of 2-3 hours, one-way, depending on road conditions. The road may be impassable during wet weather. Do not attempt this road during flash floods. The last 3 miles are very rocky, cross slickrock and can slice up tires. There are also unmarked curves and false ends. Tire damage from sharp rocks is common. RVs, trailers and low-clearance vehicles will not be able to make this road.
• Toroweap has no services of any kind and no water. You must bring all of your own supplies including food and water, and be sure to have a full tank of gas. Do not attempt to drive to Toroweap without extra water, food, gas, a first aid kit, emergency survival kit, good tires, a working spare tire, and vehicle parts and tools for repairs.
• There is no phone at Toroweap. Cell phone coverage is spotty at best. The closest services are in Fredonia, AZ.
• Carrying a GPS is strongly recommended.
• Allow at least 2-3 hours to reach the Toroweap Overlook from the highway (one way).
• Toroweap’s elevation is 4,600 feet. This is high desert country, so expect extremely dry conditions and hot temperatures from May through October and cold temperatures and some snow in winter.
• Please obey all Park Service regulations.

Please read this Toroweap brochure from the National Park Service before you decide to visit the Tuweap area.

Best Time to Visit:   Spring and late fall.

Fee:   none (permit required for backcountry camping)

Campground:   Nine very primitive sites, on a first come, first-served basis. No fee but you must sign the register. One group site (via reservation only). There are picnic tables, fire grates and composting toilets. Bring your own water and firewood. Site may fill up on weekends and during the spring months.

Grand Canyon National Park Contact Info:
General Visitor Information: (928) 638-7888
Backcountry Information Center: (928) 638-7875 between 1 pm and 5 pm Monday through Friday, except on federal holidays.

Toroweap Hiking Safety Note: Be careful when hiking and exploring. Do not get too close to the edge of the rim. Never turn your back to the rim and back up. In summer, do not hike at the hottest part of the day. When hiking, know your limits. Drink often and rest as needed. Do not attempt to hike down to the river and back in one day! Watch for lightning during summer thunderstorms. Stay away from exposed areas during storms and seek shelter in a building or vehicle during lightning strikes. Read more about lightning safety.

Trail conditions are constantly changing. Before starting out on your hike, check with the National Park Service for current conditions or closures. Trail conditions can vary with season, weather and maintenance status.

Each person has their own limits and capabilities. We cannot anticipate every hazard or possibly know your abilities and limitations. When you follow any of the hikes we mention, you assume responsibility for your own safety. It is your responsibility to be aware of traffic, road and trail conditions, weather, terrain, wildlife, your abilities and those of any companions as well as other factors.

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