San Xavier Mission

This Spanish mission is currently undergoing renovation

It was a late afternoon in December, one of those crisp, clear desert winter days.

The sun was low on the horizon and the scent of mesquite smoke and incense hung in the air.

As we entered the church, we were struck by the sense of serenity.

Looking up to the soaring, vaulted ceiling, we were awed by the hundreds of vibrantly-colored paintings and statues of angels, saints and religious scenes.

The faithful made their way to the ornately carved and gilded high altar, stopping to cross themselves before quietly sitting in the wooden pews.

An elderly Tohono O’odham man walked directly to the reclining statue of Saint Francis Xavier in the west transept.

The faithful come to see the reclining statue of Saint Francis Xavier

He removed a small cloth from his immaculately white shirt pocket and rubbed it over the statue’s head while quietly speaking to the saint.

In that moment, we felt the centuries slipping away and we stood, transported back into Tucson’s rich Spanish Colonial heritage.

The San Xavier District of the Tohono O’odham Nation retains its rural character

Known as the "White Dove of the Desert" for its brilliant white color, the mission is almost 300 years old.

Long ago, San Xavier was one of a chain of 25 Spanish missions that extended from Southern Arizona all the way into Northern Mexico.

The Spanish called this vast stretch of desert and mountains the Pimeria Alta.

The Jesuit missionary-explorer, Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, founded these Spanish missions during his travels in the region, from 1683 to 1711, when the area was still part of the Spanish Empire.

Father Kino arrived in the Tohono O’odham village of Wa:k (“Bac”), which is one of the largest, continuously inhabited settlements in the Americas, in 1692.

The Tohono O’odham people Kino encountered here farmed along the banks of the nearby Santa Cruz River - just south of present day Tucson - growing corn, squash and beans just as they do today.

Why San Xavier Mission's east bell tower was never capped with a dome remains a mystery to this day

Kino founded a mission at Wa:k and began building a church in 1700.

However, he died in 1711, leaving only the church foundation complete.

After the Jesuits were expelled from New Spain in 1767, the Franciscans took over responsibility of the missions.

They began construction of the present church in 1783.

Tohono O’odham builders completed it in 1797 - the same year that John Adams became the 2nd president of the United States.

Though over two centuries old, San Xavier Mission is still a fully functioning parish church and is still administered by the Franciscan friars.

The church primarily serves the residents of the surrounding Tohono O’odham Nation but is open to all.

Over the past few years, both Tohono O’odham and non-O’odham workers have been restoring San Xavier Mission to its original splendor.

They have completed restoration of the church’s interior, removing two centuries of the grime, dust and candle smoke that covered the decorations on every wall and ceiling surface.

Looking towards the high altar

The church, with its towers and large dome, reflects Spanish, Moorish and Mexican Baroque design.

It was constructed of adobe block coated with a plaster of lime, local sand and cactus juice.

This wash gives the mission its glowing white color.

San Xavier Mission has a distinctive look because, while it has two bell towers, only one tower was completed. Why it was not finished remains a mystery.

While lovely on the outside, San Xavier Mission’s interior is truly beautiful.

Step into the church and you will be blown away.

The intricately carved retablo mayor, or high altar, at San Xavier Mission

A reverent hush pervades the high-vaulted sanctuary.

A sculpture of God gazes down from a colorfully painted heaven above the retablo mayor, or main altar.

St. Francis Xavier, the mission’s patron saint, stands in a lower central niche.

Pilgrims must pass a pair of carved gold lions who guard the way to the altar.

Look up at the series of domes and arches.

These spaces create many niches for hundreds of intricately detailed and vibrantly colored paintings, frescoes, carvings and statues.

There are an amazing variety of little details, each meant to both teach and awe the viewer.

You could spend hours here just studying the paintings’ details.

There are depictions of:

• Saint Francis of Assisi, the spiritual father of the Franciscans, who promoted the virtues of poverty, chastity and obedience
• Saint Gertrude
• the Virgin Mary as the Divine Shepherdess
• the Last Supper
• the crucifixion of Jesus
• and the Pentecost, the day the disciples were sent into the world to spread the word of Christ’s resurrection.

One of three sculptures of Mary

There are close to 300 painted or sculpted angels, more than 100 images of saints and over a dozen representations of Santa Maria, mother of Christ.

All of the various saints, personages and emblems are painted in vivid colors of red, blue, yellow and green.

The area behind the high altar is intricately carved and gilt in gold and silver leaf.

There are also many depictions of animals including lions, deer, rabbits and snails.

The reclining statue of St. Francis Xavier in the west transept

This statue has acquired a large, local devotion since its establishment at San Xavier in 1880.

The devout come to pray before the statue, covering it with offerings of milagros.

Spanish for "miracles," these are little metal likenesses of hands, legs or heads.

Pilgrims may also leave hospital bracelets, hand written notes and photos of individuals needing special attention from the saint.

Pilgrims may rub a small cloth over its brow for blessing.

Some try to lift the saint’s head. It is said that only the truly faithful will be able to do so.

The mortuary chapel on the west side of the mission

Just west of the church is the mortuary chapel, a very small, one room building.

Inside, hundreds of candles burn against the far wall.

When we first entered the room, we were struck by the intense heat emanating from the candlelight.

Worshipers leave the candles which represent their mandas (Spanish for "promises" or "vows") and prayers.

In past years, there were also a large number of milagros, photos, and keepsakes arranged on the small altar.

For a great birdseye view of the mission, walk up the large hill to the east.

The path winds around the hill as it climbs, giving good views of the church, the San Xavier District and the nearby mountains.

The small shrine on the hilltop east of San Xavier Mission

There is a small shrine carved into the hillside near the top.

When visiting the mission, be sure to explore the small but well done museum next to the church.

The food stands outside Mission San Xavier

You can pick up photo postcards, books on the mission, rosaries and other devotional items as well as Tohono O’odham crafts.

Here, too, you can buy special smokeless candles, the only kind allowed to be burned within the church.

Outside in the parking lot, we like to stop by the mesquite ramadas to buy frybread from the Tohono O’odham vendors.

Frybread is just that – a hand-stretched bread dough that is fried until golden and crispy.

We love to eat it right from the pan, topped with drizzled honey and a sprinkling of cinnamon.

It’s hot, sticky, doughy and a little bit crispy.

Frybread can also be topped with red chile beef, beans, lettuce, tomatoes, cheese and salsa like a big tostada.

Stop by the San Xavier Plaza shops to try frybread or buy a handmade Tohono O’odham basket

It’s a filling and rich treat that’s found throughout most of the Native American cultures of the Southwest.

Across from the church is San Xavier Plaza, a small collection of shops and a café where members of the tribe sell burritos, tacos, frybread and cool drinks.

Tohono O'odham baskets in the mission museum

• San Xavier Mission is an active church which serves the surrounding Tohono O’odham community. However, services are open to everyone.
• Please be respectful of those observing mass or in prayer.
• Church service times change seasonally and special masses are held at Easter and Christmas. Call for more info.
• Public restrooms are located behind church on the west side of the building.

Location:   Nine miles south of Tucson just off Interstate 19 in the San Xavier District of the Tohono O'otham Nation (Community of Wa:k).

Address:   1950 W. San Xavier Road, Tucson, Arizona 85746

Google Map Directions: Click on "+" and "-" signs on Map Controls in upper left hand corner to zoom in and out on the location.

Phone:   (520) 294-2624

Hours:   Mission Church: Open every day of the year from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm. Before visiting, call the mission to check schedules to avoid disrupting services in progress.

Museum Hours: Daily 8:30 am - 4:30 pm.

Gift Shop Hours: Daily 8:30 am -5:00 pm. Closed Easter Sunday and Christmas Day.

Admission Fee:   None for the church and grounds. Donation suggested for entrance to museum.

Amenities:   Gift shop; café and other shops in San Xavier Plaza across from church.

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